Tuesday 29 May 2007

When Friday comes…

A few weeks ago I posted about having tried the 3 7c sports routes at Dinbren – Well Friday I managed to get back on one. The prolonged absence from sports climbing didn’t seem to have too bad an effect on my climbing but the few weeks since trying the route did result in me totally messing up the crux foot sequence to the high undercut! Doh! Yep, despite bleary-eye syndrome (tiredness or hay fever? Although I’ve never had hay fever) I made progress on my first redpoint attempt. Made it to the crux fairly easily and then just forgot the foot sequence, decided on one that seemed vaguely familiar, committed to it, growled a bit…. And fell off! Getting back on it I made it to the chains fairly quickly – hopefully I’ll get back on it soon enough to remember the moves. Like many of the UK sports lines, it’s compact, devoid of any holds and complicated beyond whats really necessary – again, having played on it for the second time I am now sure that there are at least 3 or 4 moves on that route that are Waayyy harder than any of the cruxes on any of the 7c+’s I tried last year in France or Spain. Like my current mantra goes – “ these routes don’t suit me, if I can climb these\ routes at Dinbren I can climb hard anywhere!”Aside from that it was a regular Dinbren evening – Caroline didn’t climb – just growled at her 7a project as she walked under it – she was having an easy evening after a hard week of her own. I did a couple of warm ups and cool down routes and we hit the road again.

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