Friday, 27 April 2007
Thursday, 26 April 2007
The positives i took from the day include the fact that the first lap i ran fast and it felt EASY! Physicially i felt great - it's just a blip but at least i know the training has been worth it - i have improved.
Caroline and Mike then finished the afternoon off with a 1500m, while i watch on and sulked a bit ... Nawh, not really! i cheered them on as usual
Saturday, 21 April 2007
Neal, if you read this - Ouch! I now understand ...
Wednesday, 18 April 2007
Sunday, 15 April 2007
Sunday afternoon and we get itchy feet again - this time we check out Angel Bay for a potential quick bouldering session. Caroline warms up on a V1 then flashes two V5's before working a damp V6 - i follow and manage to send the V6 using a mono to get through the crux (im sure V6 wouldn't normally use this method but all the big holds were slopey and wet! the mono was at least sharp). We tuck into our usual picnic and then i scope out a V8 that looks sweet on our way back to the path leading out of the bay, Its a bit damp from the sea mist but i cant help myself fondling the holds and before you know it, the 5.10's are back on and i've chalked the starting holds and put a tick mark under what looks like the most likely hold i stand any chance of holding.
The start is crouched - and i manage to swing in my left foot into a heel-toe beside my starting grips and reach back with my right hand to a half-pad slopey crimp thing. This at least gives me enough balance to further slot my left foot into a crack and now im committed - that feeling when you know its entirely possible that you snap off the wet slopey crimp and then fall off leaving your left ankle broken in it's foot lock!
I tense up everything and bare down and reach waaaaay past all the crappy slopers and edges (all damp) to a left handed pinch on a shallow pocket that i had ticked earlier! It feels good enough to hang! After that i just slapped up the burly slopers to the lip and a thank God jug!
... I think i just flashed a V8!
Saterday after our 14.5 mile hill run (Phew!) we decided to pack a lunch and hit the road to somewhere new - Port Ysgo on the lleyn penninsula - naively we decided to take the scenic route via Bala lake and Porthmadog - 3 hours later and with the sun thinking about setting we arived at this idilic costal bouldering venue - not a sinner in sight! The rock is a jet black Gabbro and with the sun beating down on it all day it was hot to the touch. Luckily it holds the chalk and the problems are visable from space! makes onsighting a bit easier i suppose. I'd seen some footage fo the bouldering here in the Stick it! bouldering vid years back and always fancied a go at popcorn party and Fast Cars, both V6. With the sun so low i decided not to go searching to these problems and instead got stuck into trying a few problems before tucking into our picnic.
View from the Picnic boulder
First up was the obvious chalked Beach Boys Arete, V4 - there is a picture of Mark Katz climbing this in the guide so i gave it a go as a warm up - great problem and managed to flash the lower start at V5.
Beach Boys Arete, V4
Next i tried a nasty celler-dweller steep crimp fest V7 that took two goes but probably wasn't worth it - not much to look at and the moves felt more like a fight than a climb. Next up was a great slopey V6 that i managed to flash aswell! Not much of an achievement , i know, but i was happy with it especially as i was constantly rolling off the hot slopers at each move. Pictured below...
After these problems we tucked into our picnic and i couldn't resist the urge to at least go and look at fast cars and popcorn party - one look at fast cars and i was jumping for the slopey rail and campusing up the arete to the jug, and shapr pull and lock-off later and i had flashed another V6 - this time in my trainers! (thats a first!) I always did like the look of that problem on the video :)
Saturday, 14 April 2007
After yesterdays trip to the gorge i was stoked to try some of the steep boulder problems in the gorge itself. We didn't have too much time to kill as we had to go to some athletics club awards evening so the gorge was an ideal venue for a quick session. I cant find any information on any of the problems in this sector but the one pictured below is awesome - from a low start, porwe thrugh the overhand on crimps and sidepulls to the diagonal lip, an awesome cross through to a sloper and some foot-faggotry land you can begin the rising lip traverse on crimps with worsening footies - grade? havn't a clue - but one of the best problems i've been on. Caroline spotted a traverse line aswell - thats going to keep me busy for a while - can make it as long as i like - the holds just keep on going - a great training venue for the future.
Thursday, 12 April 2007
RockySaterday we took advantage of the great weather and decided to contribute to the record breaking attendances at Chester Zoo. I dont really like the ideas of zoo's and visiting this one didn't really go any way in convincing me otherwise - apparently alot of the entrance fee goes towards conservation work so i suppose thats something. It was PACKED!!! but we made the most of it and Caroline had prepared a picnic for the whole mob which went down well especially with the Elders. A great day out!
Sunday we went for a walk up Foel Fenli and monday we drove in convoy to bangor where we said our good byes and left the parents and grandparents to drive the rest of the way to Hollyhead and their ferry - Phew!
Great to see the family - i had a great weekend and think they did too - absouloutly wrecked by this stage!
Aside from the walk nearly killing them i think they enjoyed it - there was a beautiful inversion over Ruthin and only the peaks of Snowdon and neighbouring peaks could be seen above the clouds. The lads worked up a hunger so we hit Dominos and then watched Ong-Bak - Thai kickboxing-tastic!
Caroline on he 6b+
Caroline having fun spying on the farm...
Me lowering off after another good day
Oh Hell yeah!
A busy Dinbren...