Sunday, 15 April 2007

Angel Bay

Sunday afternoon and we get itchy feet again - this time we check out Angel Bay for a potential quick bouldering session. Caroline warms up on a V1 then flashes two V5's before working a damp V6 - i follow and manage to send the V6 using a mono to get through the crux (im sure V6 wouldn't normally use this method but all the big holds were slopey and wet! the mono was at least sharp). We tuck into our usual picnic and then i scope out a V8 that looks sweet on our way back to the path leading out of the bay, Its a bit damp from the sea mist but i cant help myself fondling the holds and before you know it, the 5.10's are back on and i've chalked the starting holds and put a tick mark under what looks like the most likely hold i stand any chance of holding.

The start is crouched - and i manage to swing in my left foot into a heel-toe beside my starting grips and reach back with my right hand to a half-pad slopey crimp thing. This at least gives me enough balance to further slot my left foot into a crack and now im committed - that feeling when you know its entirely possible that you snap off the wet slopey crimp and then fall off leaving your left ankle broken in it's foot lock!

I tense up everything and bare down and reach waaaaay past all the crappy slopers and edges (all damp) to a left handed pinch on a shallow pocket that i had ticked earlier! It feels good enough to hang! After that i just slapped up the burly slopers to the lip and a thank God jug!

... I think i just flashed a V8!

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