Thursday, 16 December 2010
Tuesday, 7 December 2010
I'm still having fun playing with my phones camera too...
Monday, 6 December 2010
Caroline picked a fight with a roof. All the moves have been worked and she has lead from the ground to half way through the crux section before falling. From hanging there she makes it to the chains every time. Time, thats all it's a matter of now. Her project (one of them) is at the point now where she knows it's doable any go - it's a frustrating period of working a route. You know there are no shortcuts, no hidden beta to unlock. The route has been distilled into a precise sequence of holds - your unique path through it's difficulties. Its at this phase in my experience that a few key elements come into play. Fight, preparation, rest and luck. If you can ensure fresh arms, good skin, a good nights sleep and are prepared to really fight then any go could result in a send. At the end of yesterdays climbing i tried recording a video on my phones camera. Don't know why i hadn't tried this before. Anyway, the video above shows the result... not Caroline's highpoint but a great effort at the end of two days on.
Inspired by Carolines drive on her route (and eager to keep some grades between our projects) i tried Gaz Parry's hardest addition to the crag, Bloque 8b. It blasts a direct line through the biggest roof on the crag. I tied in and began working - within 20 mins i was at the chains having done all the moves. It's brilliant! It's like doing 3 or 4 moonboard problems on top of each other with no rests or foot faggotry. The first 6 bolts climb like a powerful 7c+ or 8a in their own right and lead into the crux which feels about V9. After the start you cross over into a pocket with your right and span up to a kind of shoulder press sloper for your left. Hooking your left foot on a spike beside your right hand and squeezing everything lets you reach up to a right hand edge (the praying mantis move!). Cut loose to uncurl. After matching this it's a full on coil and dyno to another high right hand edge. I can keep my left hand on but the feet are well and truely off here. Cut loose and match. Hike feet up and deadpoint to a right hand crimp-pinch thing. Match left foot to hand and bring your right toe onto a mini edge. By this time you're horizontal. Dab left hand on mini intermediate crimp and snatch again to crux crimp (nasty). Adjust feet and spring sideways to a flatty hand hold, again with the left. Swing, match, heelkook, clip and pull to the lip and chains. Wow! I guess I've a project :o)
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Friday, 3 December 2010
Tuesday, 30 November 2010
Download the 40 page topo here:
Located about 1.5 hours drive inland from Valencia, Albarracin seems to be the sandstone mecca of Spanish bouldering! I'm psyched to go! Lots of everything from thuggy roofs to Font style slopers... check out Dosage V.
Find out all the info here:
Interesting facilities include:
- 4 person cabins complete with kitchen, shower, toilet and TV: 69 Euros per night (17.25 each)
- 6 person cabins complete with kitchen, shower, toilet and TV: 95 Euros per night (15.80 each)
- Boulder mat rental only 5 euro per day
- I can do pick ups from both Valencia and Alicante airports (Ryanair flights from Dublin) if people want to share a cabin for a weekend!!! Get thinking...
Sunday, 28 November 2010
Unfortunately the tide was in and i've no bouldering pads in Spain. BUT at least i know they're there! I think i'll just have to accept that the White Coast of Spain is sports climbing central and not a prime bouldering spot, ah well. 3 hours gets us to Albarracin so i guess we can't complain. Gonna have to get a pad soon though... any suggestions? I'm thinking a simple and cheap Alpkit Phud again (or maybe two)
Saturday, 27 November 2010
Anyone out there got any advise? Golden dos or don'ts? Name for the board of righteousness?
Coronas at the top... nice!
Tuesday, 16 November 2010
Dave senior on the lookout for climbing spots!
Lots of steep looking corners I never got to explore
Mini roof with a sloping lip traverse?
Worth any effort?
Nice looking overhanging corner... eliminates?
Sunday, 7 November 2010
Thursday, 4 November 2010
Now, we have a Bachar ladder already set up out in the back garden and it´s showing up my basic power weakness. Arms. Guns. Biceps (or lack thereof!). But it´s not working the fingers. Que payday. I´ve decided to bring on the Beastmaker 2000 AND build a campus board. I think finally after what must be a 7 year break i´m at a level in my climbing where i can use a board again and see some positive results without aches and pains. Bring it on! I'll post about the building and design and any training as and when it happens.
During my psyche scavanging forrays on the interweb i came across these... learn and enjoy!
Wednesday, 3 November 2010
Monday, 1 November 2010
Sunday, 31 October 2010
Wednesday, 27 October 2010
Tuesday, 26 October 2010
Sunday, 24 October 2010
Me taking in what i know will be an ass kicking - Gran Fuma, 8a