Friday, 3 December 2010

The Best Bouldering In Wicklow

What is it? Where is it?
I've been looking through Dave F's last great PDF topo for Irish Bouldering in advance of coming home for Christmas and I realised I left Ireland just as things really kicked off. I've not been to half of these places. I'm home for 2 weeks and hope to get at least 5 days out on rock. Every christmas I go home I end up bouldering in Glendalough, doing the same problems - sometimes new ones. This time I would love to explore somewhere different - somewhere new (to me at least). I'll be honest, I'd like somewhere with scope for further development or with lots of projects - that really motivates me. I've bouldered at Glendalough, Lough Bray, the Scalp and once or twice in Glenmacnass.
Where would you suggest?
Obviously I've a mental wish list of problems that inspire me back home. Leftism, the Big Squeeze and the Groove project on the Holiday boulders - Glendalough. All strike me as being things I aspire to climb - Leftism is probably the best problem in the Valley in my opinion - great work Michael! Leviathan in Portrane. Everything up at the Head - those blocks look Epic!
Neal, Tim, Pierre, Dave, Trish - help me out here!

7 comments:

Trish said...

Well, I've only been to Gendalough, Glenmacnass, The Scalp and Portrane, but I definitely want to check out Mall Hill, I hear there isn't a load of stuff there, but what is there is very much worth the trip - also little or no walk in - so I hear...

If the snow goes away and you want a drive - Doolin bouldering is just brilliant too!!

Have to make it to Glendalough too though - I don't think I could ever get sick of that place :D

Neal said...

my list is pretty short also - haven't bouldered a huge amount done in Wicklow other than the usual locations...... There's people who would be much more useful than myself for this topic :)

Pierre said...

Mall hill is a must Dave. It's got good lines and there is still some hard projects:
http://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/mall-hill-rocks.html

and video here:
http://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/2008/05/mall-hill-video.html

Yes it is close to the road but be warned: you'll have to cross the river and it's full of logs (which can be very treacherous in the snow). Still it's a must if you haven't been.

Make sure you pay a visit to Living the dream/Coup d'état: real classics!(although not hard for lanky basterds...)

Lough Dan's also a must, especially the Shadow boulder, which should be on everyone's tick list.

Micko Duffy was addicted to Carrigshouk until he got Contact. Not sure if he's still going there, but it's meant to be an awesome line.

davo said...

Mall Hill and Lough Dan are the obvious choices. I'm sure you will find some new problems to do in LD.
There is a ton of bouldering in Wicklow Gap alot of it close to the road, it would be worth checking out as well.

Tim said...

Mall hill us very much in vouge at the moment but apparently being lanky is a real plus.

Lough Dan is great, not masses but a few things here and their to project. Dec and I were trying a thing to the left of shadow like hugging a fridge. Dec got close.

Lough bay always a favourite is a did down to away front the numbers possible.
Id be on for portrayed not been back since the big fatty hold broke on the arch.

Supposed to be truck loads around carlingford John howards git some contact up their. What i tried with Pierre and Duffy was real sweet.

The mourne's are on my wish list the walk is supposed to suck.

Dave said...

Right then - snow permitting Mall hill, Lough Dan and Carrigshouk.
If Wicklow's out of condition Portrane or further north - went up to visit Angela last year and endured arctic conditions - feckin freezin!

Dave said...

Pierre! Just read your post and watched the Vid - i now know where i'm heading, cheers man! Looks perfect! :)