Monday, 1 November 2010

A Muerte!

Today we went for a nice run (have a look at the Garmin profile) and then hit the crag. Los Pinos again. After yesterdays success i was keen to try the other dubious 8a, Jog jog. This is an essential piece of climbing if you want to climb Gaz's Ex Jog 8a and Jordon's Jog Pat 8a link ups. And if they can be done I'll have climbed all the moves on Gaz's Ex Pat 8a+. Got it? Didn't think so. Anyway after warming up by placing the draws, i toped it out again to work the crux hand match. After a short break spent belaying Caroline i gave it another go only to realise that i hadn't thought about the clips. Unsuccessful but i learnt something. Last go of the day i made no mistakes and redpointed it. Thrid 8a in a week! Again, this one has had 10 ascents on and 5 give it 8a while 5 grade it 7c+. I suppose the bouldery nature of this ones distinct crux section acts to split opinion. Felt harder than all the 7c's i've done at Dinbren but again, maybe thats just as a result of my style. Of the 3 this week i reckon Gran Fuma at sombre del Leon was the hardest but with each route I try i'm noticing something new in my climbing. I'm bouldering with a rope on at last! I don't think about or even notice the rope anymore and that lets me give every move of every attempt 100%... something i've never really managed before. There is something to be said for having access to sports climbing on your doorstep...

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