Saterday i took a trip through heat wave conditions here in North Wales to the Peak District - Mainly to catch up with a good mate of mine who has recently relocated from the Netherlands to London and was climbing for the weekend on Grit - but also to do some supply shopping before my trip to Fair Head this weekend.
It's not supprising the looks you get when you go into a decent gear shop looking like a vagrant and buy a small knife blade Peg, two screamer rip-stop draws and a new pair of Anasazi Verdes... I know what yer thinking - dont't worry, the skyhooks are in the post (had to order them online).
The Grit itself was stinking Hot! Completely frictionless and sweaty - but Ian had chosen a crag that i had never been to before and i enjoyed the climbing alot although my mind wasn't really on it - as is known to happen, while walking down a descent route from the top of the crag a steep, blankish wall winked at me - Bugger! Before you know it i was hanging off the hot, slopey, font-style topout with only a DMM 00 wire in a crimp between me and the deck. Hung around in the sun for a bit - ensuring the desired pump and pants-filling before topping out and lowering off to take me one and only bit of pro out. Still, an onsight of a Grit 6b friction move at the top of a slightly overhanging wall with shag all gear was just the right level of test that i was after.
Aside from that the other best bit of the Day involved just generally not bringing gear up routes and going off route at the top of a Classis Steep E1 - Ian, the Legend, Took a propper style whipper off this route and is now fully back into Trad!
I'll try and post up some thoughts about all this new shiney gear as soon as i've given them a propper thrashing at the head - But on first impressions - I LOVE the NEW ANASAZIS!!