Just a few points about the previous post and the pictures. The first few of Jerry's Roof, V9 were actually taken at the end of the day - wrecked. I had tried this problem a couple of times over the years but could never even pull any one move on the bleedin thing! Well yesterday I pulled on and linked every move (even the dyno in the picture sequence!) right up to the last move before turning the lip. Then I was pumped, suffering from lack of skin and lost... I’d never had reason to scope out the holds above this point and had no clue as where I was to go. But most importantly I was very, very pleased - that dyno sequence alone was enough for me - pure bouldering perfection! I'll be back as soon as I can to dispatch it.
The other pics are from earlier on in the day. Ultimate Retro Party is a V8 that I had looked at before but I couldn't even pull on (noticing a pattern?). This time I began by working the final 2 thirds of the problem from a stand up. Pulling on from a shallow scar with my left and the undercut crack with my right, I spanned out right to the lip, used some toe clamping and all the meagre body tension I had to lock the position and cross-over with my left to a small rail then on to the finishing jug - probably worth V6/7 in it's own right. Then surprised at that, I began to work the start - despite expecting it to be more difficult than it was I dug in and soon had a sequence that overlapped my first couple of attempts nicely and I began to work the complete thing. This is where I think I need to find more focus - I just kept trying and trying it - always falling tantalising close to the finishing jug. I felt like I just wanted to send it quick and move on so we could both try more problems. I guess that’s the wrong attitude to have, as I was just getting more and more fatigued with each try. A problem like that should be wanted and waited for - making each attempt count and resting in between. Ah well, impatience won and we moved on leaving me with URP's sweet heel hooks, and balancy undercut snatching moves lodged firmly in my psyche! Again, another sequence that I was both happy to have figured out and surprised to be able to pull!
This was Caroline’s first time on rock since Spain in October! Well she didn't waste any time, after warming up with a few laps of the roof crack in the slideshow below she went on to try URP and the cramlech roof crack V7 (my one decent send for the day). We were both feeling the lack of bouldering but saying that we were getting up some things that we probably would not have sent before - Caroline had a great run of sends on the cromlech roadside face, flashing most of the lines up to V4 and getting over her initial fear of top outs :) All of a sudden things were looking possible - a great day out!
The other pics are from earlier on in the day. Ultimate Retro Party is a V8 that I had looked at before but I couldn't even pull on (noticing a pattern?). This time I began by working the final 2 thirds of the problem from a stand up. Pulling on from a shallow scar with my left and the undercut crack with my right, I spanned out right to the lip, used some toe clamping and all the meagre body tension I had to lock the position and cross-over with my left to a small rail then on to the finishing jug - probably worth V6/7 in it's own right. Then surprised at that, I began to work the start - despite expecting it to be more difficult than it was I dug in and soon had a sequence that overlapped my first couple of attempts nicely and I began to work the complete thing. This is where I think I need to find more focus - I just kept trying and trying it - always falling tantalising close to the finishing jug. I felt like I just wanted to send it quick and move on so we could both try more problems. I guess that’s the wrong attitude to have, as I was just getting more and more fatigued with each try. A problem like that should be wanted and waited for - making each attempt count and resting in between. Ah well, impatience won and we moved on leaving me with URP's sweet heel hooks, and balancy undercut snatching moves lodged firmly in my psyche! Again, another sequence that I was both happy to have figured out and surprised to be able to pull!
This was Caroline’s first time on rock since Spain in October! Well she didn't waste any time, after warming up with a few laps of the roof crack in the slideshow below she went on to try URP and the cramlech roof crack V7 (my one decent send for the day). We were both feeling the lack of bouldering but saying that we were getting up some things that we probably would not have sent before - Caroline had a great run of sends on the cromlech roadside face, flashing most of the lines up to V4 and getting over her initial fear of top outs :) All of a sudden things were looking possible - a great day out!
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