Friday, 25 April 2008


It's been over 3 weeks since i've trained!! I'm convinced i'm now weak as piss!! How will i ever climb again?
Well, it's not that bad really - i've been doing little bits and bobs (even though i said i wouldn't) - concentrating on body tension and footwork at the wall and bouldering - plenty of slopers and no crimps - plus i managed to lead an E5 that i've done before but used to find fairly tough - this time i felt grand on it - kinda like it was a path! but the best news recently was hanging from both the large and small rungs on my fingerboard last night with no pain - but again, no crimping - just open handed.
Aside from that, for the first time ever the dwindling grade gap between myself and Caroline seems to have sparked some life back into my trad goals. The hardest i've lead is E6, i've also onsighted and soloed at this grade - i hate to admit it but it seems like i've hit a glass ceiling and havn't made any effort to push through it. Before the limiting factor used to be physical - basicially i'd climb at my limit on trad. Now i've improved my sports climbing and bouldering i'm finding the trad routes easier - i'm just thinking twice about the danger. I've a list of a few E8's that i'd like to lead but i know if i try them and can climb them then they'll get rooted into my head and i'll have to lead them. I'm also kidding myself into saying that if i do an E8 i will be happy with that but really i'm not so sure... Hmmmmm. It's all just pie in the sky for now anyways.... just talk... and thats cheap :)
Watching committed DVD hasn't helped my head by the way.... it all just looks so good!

1 comment:

Sara, a rock climber girl said...

You're going to be fatigued when you come back to it, but you'll be better off for the rest. I *try* to take about a month off each year... usually between about late Nov and late Dec... it's not ideal, because it's typically followed by my winter trip outside so I'm never as "in shape" as I'd like to be for my precious week of winter rock climbing... but a little time off gives all of those little micro-injuries that haven't yet become big-injuries a time to recover.

By the way, Barenaked Ladies rock. I've seen them live a number of time and they're incredible.