Tuesday, 1 June 2010

Cave Topo

  1. Caroline’s Traverse, V4/5 ***
    Start at the obvious head height jug and traverse out of the cave. Finish by rocking over onto the slab.

  2. Loco Total, V8 ***
    Hanging start by clamping the obvious beach ball tufa feature in the middle of the cave with hands and feet. Blast along the tufa line using pinches, pockets, crimps and slopers to a deadpoint into a slot followed by a cut-loose and swing to join Caroline’s traverse. Finish along this and onto the slab outside the cave.

  3. The Kracken Project, V8 (unfinished) *
    I’ve done all the moves on this in two big overlapping sections but didn’t climb it in one go due to fatigue. Start as for Loco Total but snatch rightwards from the two finger pocket to the lip of the giant roof crack (possible kneebar rest). Blind slapping and inventive footwork will let you fight your way to the cave lip. Has been completed to the lip after starting from the kneebar at V7.

  4. The Daylight project, V? (unfinished) ***
    Match the big bucket jug on Loco before launching to join Caroline’s Traverse and continue straight through the roof to finish on the lip. Brilliant sequence using an undercut for your right hand and snatching to a positive left hand slot. All moves done but not from the start of Loco. Starting from Loco jug to lip felt V8 in itself!

  5. The Destroyer Project, V7? (unfinished) *
    Essentially a brutal, energy draining extension start to any of the 3 previous problems. Start at the back of the cave and begin heelhooking and undercutting your way to eventually reach the starting position of Loco Total! Felt V7 in it’s own right but hard to grade as feels awkward for the tall plus one section was damp so it wasn’t climbed in one push. Pumpy!

  6. The Albatross, V? (unfinished)
    Sit start on an obvious double handed jug. Reach up and left to a sidepull in a crack, build your feet up and finish rightwards into the roof crack. Perfect bouldering angle, 45degree. Start and finish done separately at end of session – jacked!

  7. Afterthought, V1
    Sit start and move up to two massive sidepull bucket jugs. From here jump/reach backwards to a jug on the hanging shelf and campus to the cave lip. May be harder for the tall/short/fat/weak.

  8. The Opposition Party Project, V? (unfinished)
    Sit start on good holds, move up until a span to oppose an undercut is possible. Match this and finish in or around the kneebar (or finish along the line of the Kracken!).

For me the line of the cave must be to link Destroyer into Loco and finish up Daylight giving Daylight Destroyer! Something like 16m of roof climbing with no rests and the hardest sequence at the end… Drool!! Also Destroyer into Kracken would be awesome too (with or without kneebar). Starting as for Carolines traverse and reversing a section of loco to finish up Daylight would be class aswell!

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