Monday, 31 January 2011

Another good weekend

Two days on rock working hard. Bliss! I just realised what i like... i like doing hard movement. It's all about the moving between piss poor holds for me... getting pumped and falling off easy moves never really did it for me (although i'm planning on doing plenty of that in the coming weeks).

I have a route that i'm trying. Last week i got psyched because i managed to to the top section. This weekend i gave it 10 goes in total. Each go failing right at the top. With every go i figured out something more. a foot movement, a twist, and clip, refining that poor heel hook etc.. but with each fall my skin and arms were taking a punishing they couldn't recover from. The top couple of bolts worth of climbing are on holds like the namesake pocket on the Gnasher problem up at the Sheep Pen boulders in Ogwen valley. Like a tight three finger pocket full of sharp teeth - ouch! Anyway, i loved trying hard and falling from the top over and over again. It'll go next day out. Chuffed to be climbing through the lower section every time to be honest as it's 8a in it's own right.

Caroline must be building the required stamina for her project because this weekend saw her climb past her previous highpoint and stick the crux dyno and swing. after that she made it a further clip and came off on the final move to easier ground. Brilliant!!! She fell off looking at the chains above her due to the tiredness of two day on and 8 redpoint attempts. Soon now, very soon

This evening theres a light dusting of snow on the mountains around us... didn't expect that!

Keep cranking!

No comments: