Friday, 7 May 2010

Friday night Progress

This evening we hit Dinbren feeling very tired. By the time Vince arrived i had warmed up by clipping up Carolines current 7b+ project. Caroline began her lead attmepts in style, cruising the lover roof and dealing with the head games associated with the lead. By the time Caroline clipped the anchors she had clocked up some impressive mileage working the moves and her sequence was clean and efficient - the redpoint is on the cards! Vince warmed up on the 6b and then gave Caroline line a go, finding it difficult but agreeing that it was pure class! My turn. Onto the 8a+... during my last attempt I managed the first "move" but nothing much more. The middle section was untouchable to me. Tonight however things were flowing. I pulled on and Dialed the first crux first go (felt easy! Was this the same route?!!?) and set up for the crux. Holds that felt unusable before gave purchase this evening and i began experimenting with the meager footholds on offer... then click! I discovered my sequence that allowed me to move up on the high left sidepull, hike my feet onto smears, coil up and snatch high with my right to a slopey edge, bump the right toe onto a cornflake and stab again with the right into a sidepull and put the next draw in and make the clip. I had just climbed through the crux and made the clip! The next energy sapping section kept me busy for a while - an obvious chalked undercut kept enticing my left hand but it was foolish... I was Waaay to low for that and it was waaay too shit to be of use yet. The sequence I came up with that allows me to make it to the "rest" undercut is like a complicated dance - I LOVE technical climbing!! The top quarter of the route didn't put up much resistance and i cruised on to the top but i'm not fooled... the redpoint crux will no doubt be the delicate rockover through the top bulge on truely piss-poor slopers! It's on and I'm psyched!!!!

No comments: