Tuesday, 27 April 2010

Success!!!

This evening after one rest day Caroline redpointed her first 7b in over 3 years!! Walking up to the crag, conditions were perfect. Gentle breeze and warm evening light. Warming up on the crag 6b Caroline felt good, taking her time and chalking up on the smaller holds. I went up the project and placed the draws and noticed the improvement. The friction on the undercuts was waaay better than it was on Sunday and even with just the one days rest my skin was feeling better. Caroline had been suffering sleepless nights due to the 7b… she was becoming obsessed! It’s class! With a extremely powerful crux low down Caroline took a warm-up go to remember the sequence and then lowered off. Unfortunately taking a chunk out of her little finger. It was pumping blood but determined to continue we just taped it up as best I could and Caroline readied herself. Shaking out and chalking up, Caroline looked focused but happy. Styling through the low roof, she arrived at the high undercuts – just below her previous highpoints. Clip, left sidepull, hike the feet, right crimp, right high sidepull, clip – progress! High right crimp, edging the feet up on tinies… at this point Caroline was pumped and this was an on – off move! I remember falling from this point when redpointing this route for the first time AND belaying Nige Calendar during his early attempts on the route when he came off at this move. Caroline adjusted her left hand on the small crimp and then slapped for the high jug, latching it just as one of her feet popped! By this stage interest in the ascent had built at the crag and 5 or 6 people were watching and cheering… finishing the route Caroline was beaming! That was a landmark route and although she had lead 7b once before in France, this is her hardest route to date by far – Awesome!!

5 comments:

Neal said...

pass on my congrats :)

Dave said...

Cheers Dude!!

Lee said...

Sendage! Nice job!

Wasatch Girl said...

NICE!!! Please tell her congratulations for me!

Dave said...

Will do Rach! Hope you're keeping well!!