Monday, 19 April 2010

Dinbren Sessions

In the last 7 days we’ve been climbing up at the crag of justice no less than 6 times… Result! Determined to keep some momentum in out climbing after Siurana we’ve been putting in the hours after work. Sunday after Siurana we headed up with the Doozers to soak up some Dinbren sun and start picking projects. Caroline began by getting stuck into Hot Stuff, 7a. Her Flash attempt went well but route finding and pumped arms forced her to rest above the crux. I went off and had a play on When Saturday Comes, 7c. I had been on this before but it was just too fingery for me back then. This time I got the draws in and worked the moves pretty quickly. Caroline went back for her redpoint attempt on the 7a and dispatched it in one – power roars and all. Awesome! With a steep powerful roof to start and a off balance layback above I reckoned this was probably Caroline’s most impressive lead – despite not having the biggest grade. Well rested from working the 7c it was time for my redpoint – first go I failed on the high crux deadpoint to a tiny edge – after lowering and pulling the rope through I jumped straight on and dialled each move – this time pausing to shake and chalk each hand twice off the undercuts below the deadpoint – pulling into the launch position I felt more in control and latched the edge no problem – feet up on shit footers, clip – sent! Monday evening Caroline moved onto her next project – Fat Boys, 7a+. I hate this route! I had lead 7b+ at Dinbren before I could redpoint this mother – it’s one of those rare routes with a height dependant crux that favours the short! I knew Caroline would nail the crux but on the other hand I knew she would have to fight through the long reaches through the starting roof and upper wall. I got on Insomnia, 8b. The loss of a crucial hold between the 1st and 2nd bolt has made the start of this route impossible for me at the minute – it remains unrepeated.
Wednesday we return and Caroline began the redpoint of Fat Boys. First redpoint Caroline surprised herself by cruising the lower roof and crux section but came off the tricky transition into the upper layback. Lowering off and taking 10 mins rest Caroline was ready for round 2 – Again, the lower roof and crux presented not much by way of difficulties but left Caroline feeling pumped – too pumped to pull the move she had worked into the layback – Fighting on, Caroline just invented a new sequence, more, smaller and harder moves and a hell of a lot of fight got her high up above the bolt and crossing over to the flat hold and a rest – Sent! 7a+ at Dinbren! Thursday evening it was just me and the doozers – while they were working a 6c I went off and clipped my way up a 7c+ I had never tried before, The Rivals. As luck would have it I met a Belgian bloke, Vincent, who was at the crag for the first time and whos partner had to cancel last minute – well I was happy to show him around and he gave me a belay on the 7c+. Another route showing the signs of hold loss – epoxy stains where a hold had been glued on and come off and lots of orange scars of recent broken holds – one move was absolutely NAILS! Everything else felt easy – so one to come back to methinks. To get some mileage in I did a 7b+ and 7a+.
Friday I start checking out El Rincon, 8a+. For me the hardest move is definitely between the 1st and 2nd bolt but I’d imagine on redpoint the top move is killer. Anywho, after a good bit of work I got a sequence for the lower wall and then made a snap decision to try and onsight the left variant, finishing up Orgasmatron with a grade of 7c+. It was a fight to keep it together after the 8a start but with the top 4 bolts only being 7a I managed to keep it together to the chains – nice!! El Rincon is next on the list. After this I lead The Bandits – originally graded 7c+ and 7b+ in the current guide it’s one of those routes whos grade can be argued about for hours. When I first tried it last year I though it was desperate – now it seems I can lead it anytime, placing the draws so maybe for me the 7b+ grade is becoming appropriate. Anyway, I was happy with leading it and now it was time for Caroline to begin to dissect the route into it’s 3 component parts – Burley start through some steepness leads to a fingery middle wall and finally into an energy sapping capping overhang. This is going to be a worthwhile project… watch this space.

2 comments:

Tim said...

Wow your phsyche levels are great! Carol is flying big well done. Nice photos too!

Dave said...

Haa, Cheers man - yeah, i'm pretty keen alright and Caroline is cranking well too - how was the Kerry meet - you make it down?