Wednesday, 10 March 2010

Training

Well things have been plodding along nicely… with training I’m accepting that no incidents are good incidents. I’m still trying not to go overboard and just keep things at a nice level that let me keep training without getting injured. So far so good, thank God! Last night at the end of an easy fingerboard session I tried the weekly test of pull-up power by trying to lift myself off the floor one-armed. This time the scales were reading 5 kg. Right! For some reason I felt (having never managed a one-armer before) sort of out of balance… the disengaged arm didn’t know what to do or where to be… one leg is raised in an almost crunch position the other keeping a toe on the scales. I tried putting my resting hand on my neck and gave it another go, kind of like a self half-hug. And it made the difference – my first one-armed pullup! And a controlled lower back down! Whey hey!! I then tried it on the left and again, it worked! I don’t know why it worked but it did. Its still not feeling easy though and I’m going to revise my target…. I want to be able to do 3 of them in a row on each arm with my disengaged arm across my core, instead of on my neck.

Regarding the details of what I’ve been playing with in order to achieve this – off set pull-ups, high hand on a sloper, lower hand on the smallest edge (openhanded) roughly 6 inches lower. 10 reps, 6 sets, alternating which hand is highest. I’ve also been going sets of 3 reps with a 20kg weight hanging off my waist. Only 4 sets of these making sure to lower very slowly and trying to let the higher arm do most of the work.

This morning I clocked in at just under the 78kg mark and psych levels are tip top! The weekend trips to Snowdonia bouldering are helping no end! This is why I’m doing it (the training). It’s all for the rock and I’m seeing huge progress on problems I really struggled with in the past. I’m keeping an open mind now regarding projects – I want to work something hard, something beautiful, a new level for me – no firm candidates as yet but I’d love to try a V10 or V11. I’m just going to have to try a lot of problems and see what feels worthy of investing a lot of time into :o)

5 comments:

Neal said...

nice dude :) like campusing, just learning the technique is part of the game - I must remember that every time I get frustrated with campusing! I'm not surprised you already had most of the strength for a one-armer though - good on ya!

Out of interest, how often are you doing those one-arm sets? I'm trying to learn how to do it on a large deep crimp rail and not having any success right now so all ideas welcome.....

AdK said...

I'm a friend of Neal from South Africa :), I like you'alls psyche! A very nice way of practicing one arms is to fix one "rock ring" and the other suspended on a pulley, with say a 5/10/20kg attached to the end, thus having one arm do 60kg and the other say 10kg, this also keeps the body more alligned, and you can do sets of say 5-10 with one arm-10kg. Feels good, Neal see you in Spain in April! btw, check out
http://our-energie.blogspot.com

Tim said...

Well done man, I'd love to do a one armer, it's funny my enthusiam levels at the moment are of the chart. 2 evening sessions and 2 days in glendo alone but I can't/won't make time for the realistic training plan. I read meals blog wich also post links to you and I'm like, right let's set targets then I do something else. By the end of today I hope to have done it, you have both shamed me:).

Neal said...

AdK, Dave will be in Spain also so you'll have lots of external motivation :)
Tim, those 30 minutes of thougt will pay off 10-fold!

Dave said...

I'll put up the details of the training plan we've been using in a post...

Cheers AdK, the rock rings idea sounds good :o)