Wednesday, 10 March 2010

Surprise 7C!

On Sunday we took another trip out to Llanberis Pass. This would be our 3rd day on of bouldering and I was feeling abused. Caroline took the sensible option and used the opportunity to take her little sis up Snowdon for the first time (not without incident I might add… two girls in trainers and a Rocky on a snow and ice covered mountain do attract a lot of attention from the crampon wearing gear freak type). I decided to let the girls have some catch up time and hit the rocks again with Sergeant Tom.

Sunday the pass was packed! 3 drives up and down searching for a parking space and eventually we just double parked down by Jerry’s. The place was fully mat’ed! With our 3 pads it brought the total to over 10. I don’t really like a big crowd when I’m climbing but needing to stay within view of the car and wanting to project something I just had to join the gang. Everyone was sound. Don’t know why it keeps surprising me really…. I mean we’re all like minded people there for the rock. A nice group of lads finishing up their weekend away from Birmingham Uni and a local couple. All in all there were 2 people seriously working Jerry’s and 2 or 3 other blokes playing on some holds but not really doing much. Tom’s agenda was Jerry’s – he wants it bad and set to work on the starting moves leading to the crack. This was his second session on the problem and he was making some progress but conditions weren’t helping… believe it or not it was quite hot!
I felt rubbish but got started on Bus Stop, a powerful V9 to the right of Jerry’s. With only 7 hand movements (in contrast to Jerry’s 20 odd, depending on the sequence used) and at the same grade and on the same lump of beautiful rock I was expecting something harder – I got it. Luckily there were plenty of people around to offer beta and different sequences (some of which not too obvious) and armed with that knowledge I got stuck in. The first move has two potential methods – one method using a sidepull for the left hand to reach for the right hand edge, feels easier than the other. The alternative involves starting right hand on an undercut and left hand on an openhanded pinch – but this, harder method puts you in a much better position for the crux which involves a very precise heelhook on the left sidepull and a shouldery lock with the right arm, reaching for a crimp in the roof before a crucial foot move and a pop with the left hand to an open pinch. After that a tricky top out around the lip sees you on the slab and happy out! I could nail the first move every time using both methods but the crux kept me busy for hours. My heelhook kept coming out during the pop to the high pinch. 5 hours of playing on the one problem left me with a durable sequence and completely shattered! I was wasted.
Tuesday evening, Caroline suggested we go for a night bouldering session so we packed pads and lantern and hit the road, after a warm up on the roadside classics I pulled onto the problem and climbed straight through to the lip – and fell off. But I was soo close! Excited, I jumped back on only to fluff up the first move and not land the flat edge correctly. Noooo…. Had I blown my chance first go? A quick brush of the holds, shuffle of the pads, spit n’squeak of the shoes (especially the left heel) – pulled on and topped out! Feckin eh!! Chuffed!
What next?...

The thought that i had done every move bar one on a famous V12 hadn't crossed my mind (honest!)....

5 comments:

Neal said...

sweet!!!!!

Dave said...

You know it! Now two problems dispatched on the block of justice, Jerry's and Bus Stop. Oh, and i've managed the crux of Mr. Fantastic now too.... but the big link is a tall order!

Neal said...

When do get to join in and give you some competitive motivation? ;)

Dave said...

As soon as!! We're probably going to stay local this weekend and try and clock up some mileage on a rope - Clwyd sports tmw if it's dry - Awesome walls if its not. Sunday will be North Wales bouldering in the pass or the Orme :o)

Tempted?

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