Friday, 28 September 2007


Well again i'm late in writing anything as a result of adjusting to the new schedule of work and training but thats not to say we've not been getting up to anything. After the success on Highway we headed back to Dinbren, this time to try a neighbouring 8a+... on arriving to the crag, the locals in the form of Lee (the guidebook writer), Guy (Lee's Nephew) and their strong friend Mark were set up camp on what we had come for.

After catching up with Lee and hearing his Beta for Elite Syncopations i decide it's worth getting on again and seeing if it feels any more doo-able. This is another 8a at the crag and has a wicked hard crux at the second bolt. The frustrating thing is that aside from this section, the rest of the route is fine and dandy! I had tried it a few months ago and decided that it didn't suit me and left it at that. With Lee's new sequence it seemed possible.

Sunday we return and after watching Lee's successful ascent on youtube the night before i was psyched to give it a propper working! Man i got spanked! if you look at the video it looks like a path! it just highlights how tall Lee actually is! I've never before been outreached by anyone but he manages to do it! It's a git of a move but workable all the same - Very powerful lock with the left shoulder on a crimp with only a very low right foothold while you reach for a distant sloper with your right

Heres Guy's video of Lee's ascent... the third hand movement is the crux! He styles through it!

Meanwhile Caroline continues her training by working the harder 7's at the crag. The line pictured above is a brilliant 7a+ but a bit reachy! I can honestly say that i reckon the sequence Caroline has crafted out of the meager holds on offer to her looks more desperate then the 8a crux i was on.... reach huh?! Not the fairest thing in the world but makes for great grading debates!

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