The Road to Release

It’s dark and wet on a Sunday evening in Llangollen and I’m shattered! 2 days of frantic packing, making snap decisions on what is needed and what should go free to a good home, dismantling the Fringe board and lowering it down the side of a building under cover of night and saying all the final goodbyes to everyone has taken its toll. I had planned on setting off for Dover around 10pm after a few hours of sleep but of course that never happened. It’s 11pm now and we’ve been at it flat out. It’s a strange feeling trying to pack two peoples lives into the boot and backseat of a 307. Strange in a good way – leaving bag after bag of clothes and memories down to the charity shop felt like a release. Throwing away black sack after black sack of junk into the skip had the same effect. It was like the ultimate spring clean and I felt great after doing it. Being forced to evaluate what actually matters and what was needed brought me to the realisation that in fact I don’t need very much at all. It’s the people I’ve met, friendships I’ve made and experiences I’ve had that are the only things I really want to keep hold of – everything else can go and I’m more than happy to start from scratch.

The 1500 mile drive passed in a two day blur. Not much to say really. The car was full, we’d not a lot of money but just enough to make the fuel and toll costs to La Nucia, I couldn’t see out the back window and there was no Air conditioning so the front windows were open at all times. We arrived to our new home hot and sweaty wrecks. But we’re here now and ready to start exploring!

UK round up

Well it was so manic before leaving the UK that I haven’t written much at all this last month or so. It’s been probably my best time in the UK during the entire 6 years! Lots of friends and family visiting and great nights out, group meals and lots of fun days out on rock. The highlight definitely had to be the Irish invasion. Neal, Naomi, Niamh, Claire, Kev P, Sean and Kev M, Tricia, Daire and Grainne all came to visit and tear the crags up. Naomi, Niamh and Caroline in their 80’s retro gear, classic! It was brilliant catching up with everyone, especially those that I’ve not been out with in years. That night we ate a communal curry and hit the Wine bar for some spinney plate antics and general merriment.

Yes... even Rocky is pretending not to know them :o)

Climbing wise things started to taper off a bit towards our move and the weather began to show signs of weakness too. When I think back to ascents worthy of note only a few come up. Caroline kept bashing away at Bandits till the bitter end. Her best burn got her from the deck, up through the crux and above the 3rd clip before a foot slip spat her off. From there she lead it to the top. It’s a weird route to belay her on because the lower section is so obviously height dependant that I would say for Caroline it warrants it’s original grade of 7c. Either way the grade wasn’t what was motivating Caroline for this line – it was its climbing, its moves and its reputation as one of the most sought after lines at the crag. In the end the packing and bad weather prevented us from getting on it before leaving and it remains unsent despite my gut instinct knowing it was doable very soon.

I went back and repeated “Out of Body Experience” again after the loss of a large hold on the roof section after my second ascent. The start now feels like a much harder boulder problem for me and I have less doubt of it’s 8a status as a result – still a brilliant route and fun, fun, fun! I lead “Highway” again too as Vince was working it and I realised how blinkered I was to stay with a sequence I found nearly 3 years ago despite developing so much since then. I think I was making life difficult for myself! My original sequence felt 8a, Vince’s beta made it feel 7c! Lesson learned. Finally I left my very own little mark on Dinbren (other than a string of broken holds) by linking up two difficult sections of climbing to create a new line. “Elite Deviation” take in all the hard climbing of “Elite Syncopations” 8a before finishing up the crux section of “Bolt from the Blue” E6 6c (7c). This replaces the 7b finish of syncopations with something a little harder. Also the top half of the route is protected by 2 wires in the crack below the final roof adding a little spice to the mix. Although I feel the link is harder than the original I don’t feel it warrants 8a+ so I’m leaving it at 8a.

It has been such a productive 3 months of climbing that I feel I’ve passed a milestone in my climbing as we leave for Espana. I’ve sent every route I’ve really wanted and one or two I genuinely though were impossible for me to booth.

El Rincon, 8a(+)
Out of Body Experience, 8a (x2)
Elite Deviation, 8a
Elite Syncopations, 8a
Rivals, 7c+ (I’ve lead this twice - 8a after loss of good crimp?)
Highway, 7c+ (again!)
Rincon Orgasmatron, 7c+
Dyperspace, 7c
Extreme Ways, 7c
When Saturday comes, 7c

Chuffed! I’m going to miss Llangollen and Dinbren but moving onto bigger and better things. New places and faces are what it’s all about!

España!

Well we´ve arrived in Spain safe and sound but ... a decent update to follow as soon as things calm down a bit and i can bring myself to sit down and type :)

Psyche live…

During the past few weeks I’ve been getting out more and climbing with Neal again. I reckon we’ve not climbed this much since out Euro road trip over 6 years ago. It’s funny that we still tackle routes in a very similar way despite having wildly different climbing experiences during the last few years – it all stems back to the DCU wall and Dalkey. Neal has just finished his teacher training year and is emerging out from under the immense pile of assignments, reports, observations, deadlines and standards files back out into the world of climbing and he’s picking up pace fast! Last weekend was an awesome pick n’ mix of climbing. We started off by working an 8a sports route on Saturday morning down at LPT, then a V10 boulder problem in Parasella’s Cave when the tide stopped play on the sports crag, Sunday morning we spent a few sunny hours bouldering on some easy problems up at Monument boulders and finished the weekend off by working an E7 face climb on Nesscliffe sandstone! Brilliant!

Caroline has been taking a break from projecting for a couple of weeks after working her first 7b+. She decided to make a few quick ticks of some 7a’s and build up some stamina by doing laps of one of Dinbren’s more sustained 6c+’s. Well last week Caroline seemed up for a challenge again and began working Walking with Barrence. Originally graded 7b but currently up-graded to 7b+ with the loss of an undercut, this route redefines sustained in the 7b+ grade. Thin and technical with a butch and pumpy finish. Caroline made quick work of all the moves and on her second session managed to link the whole route on a top rope – swift progress! Watch this space…

Meanwhile I went through a period of feeling slightly at a loss at Dinbren. That dark, dark time lasted all of about 37 seconds before I decided to throw myself at working Gwennan till we pack up and leave. At 8a+ and having a very distinct one move crux it’s going to be hard. Hard on the skin to be more precise! Two tiny and sharp two pad crimps need to be boned down upon and dyno’ed from, through a roof, to a jug. A further 7b+ sequence above this and the climbing eases considerably to the chains. If I send this I’ll keep working Insomnia the 8b.

Alongside the Dinbren ambitions I’ve been getting more and more psyched for LPT. Before going down to the crag the other week I showed Neal and Naomi a clip from the Welsh Connections DVD. Pete Robbins crushing Liquid Amber, 8c/+. It always motivated me to hear and see the reactions of Pete’s mates on that DVD trying to articulate their views on his climbing. “He’s applied himself… you mean he lost a stone and a half and trained like fuck!” After watching him redpoint 8c/+ and boulder V13 I can’t help but think I want to do the same – really apply some will power and see some results. It was funny to be down at LPT a few evenings later with Caroline and her sister Joanne – dogging my way up Statement of youth for the first time to feel the holds when Pete turns up and puts his draws in the route beside me. Such a sound bloke – giving advice and much needed beta while working Infanticide an unrepeated 8c himself. As we left the crag I watched as Pete gave the route a full on redpoint attempt… the only other time I’ve watched climbing at this level happening was when Caroline and myself cheered on Chris Sharma redpointing his 9b in Siurana. Pete had it dialled and the climbing looked awesome! He fell off high at the top bolt… it wouldn’t be tonight but he’d have it next visit, I was sure of that and was happy for him. He has now sent it and I have been well and truly motivated to improve my game. I am in school now but will be at LPT by 4:15 this afternoon… game on!

... and on the 6th day

This evening was my 6th day on. Thurs was spent working Insomnia, Friday on Insomnia, Saterday climbing with Caroline, Neal and Steve at Dinbren playing on Rob's new 8a, Sunday in Parasella's cave and LPT, Monday up at Dinbren and today (you guessed it!) - Dinbren.

Caroline had tried Technicolour Yawn briefly on Saterday and gave it a quick speed ascent on monday while being attacked by Midges and was keen to get back on it in better conditions. I was eager to keep working the tricky traverse of Rob's new and as yet unnamed 8a. At this point it seemed like a possible but distant goal. Caroline was first up and got on her 7a+ without warming up as we arrived late and felt tired. Falling off at the mid height crux due to flash pump and a wrong foot placement. No worries - i was sure she'd send it next go no problem. Lee Proctor (author of the local guidebook and hardworking crag developer) was up at the crag and had checked out Rob's new line before we got there. He was keen to see my sequence and egged me on to try it. So without much of a warmup and with the sun still on the crux holds i tied in and went for the redpoint. The holds felt warm to the touch but for some reason i felt strong on them and made it across the traverse and even made the tricky 4th clip before falling off the warm high sidepull - grrrrrr!

Caroline tied in again and began to climb. This time it was obvious the difference warming up had made. Every move flowed and seemed effortless from the ground. Reaching the crux, Caroline moved her feet up high and latched the right hand pinch, then the left crimp. With her feet high she eyeballed the distant tickmarked edge - the crux deadpoint. But she hesitated. Oh No!!!! Don't blow it here! you've got it!! But then something different happened - Caroline chalked up, crossed over to a previously un-used edge, built her feet up and fell into the ticked jug! Wow! talk about thinking on your feet! From here to the top i knew Caroline would be safe - it was a crack afterall, Caroline's speciality :o)

To most people that send would just be another 7a+ and no big deal but to Caroline it was a bit more. It wasn't by accident that she came back to this route AFTER leading 7b and 7b+ at the crag - for her this 7a+ represented her nemisis! She was rightly chuffed to bits - it was a brilliant and quick send and really worked her weaknesses.

Back to my project. It would be brilliant to send it this evening but it would require pulling out the stops if i wanted to send it without a solid sequence for the traverse - it still felt like i was winging it. I Tied in and pulled on. By this stage the route had been in the shade for about 20 mins and the difference was just what i needed to get me into redpoint mode. No excuses now, perfect conditions! I move along the initial powerful lip moves and sink the high heel-toe lock. Swaying to get the momentum required for the crossover to the left hand edge, it feels good. Psyched, i dab my right hand on an intermediate sloper and spot my target - a slopey footer. Focused on the foothold i release the heel-toe and cut loose. Unlike the attempts at the weekend though i quickly paste the right foot on and span across to the right hand edge. Myself and Neal had discussed skipping the tough 4th bolt and just launching into the tricky redpoint crux sequence above - risking the lob. Feeling fresh and having climbed with pace to this point i looked and the awkward clip and decided. Move on! Reaching up to the high left sidepull, i hike my feet up onto the smears and reach up for the right sidepull. Gripped, I manage to get my left foot onto the crucial edge just as my fingers slip a little on the warm edge. Solid now i make the moves up to the jugs marking the end of the hard climbing. A bit run-out but onto easier ground. Pulling over the capping roof felt amazing! Chuffed! Another 8a in the bag - progress!

Now theres a good evening! Chocolate and homemade flapjacks were had - good times!