Tuesday, 20 May 2014


Air Time - Photo: David Flanagan

I attended the 2014 Gap of Dunloe climbing meet at the weekend. Wow! Great location, great routes and fantastic atmosphere. Very similar to Llanberris in North Wales but with a huge amount of development still waiting to be done. I teamed up with Brian (Honey Badger) and we set out to get trashed on the bullet hard sandstone. Heres the pick of the routes we did on Friday and Saturday morning...
Air Time 30m E5 6a – classic, clean and safe ***
Far Away Friends 10m E5 6b – flash after watching video, 5 cams all sound - more like E3/4 5c/6a **
Name Unknown 12m E5 6a – nice wall climbing above crux of Wickedy Wock **
The Crazy Horseman 9m E3 6a – short and sweet, kneebars a plenty, just bring cams **
Wickedy Wock 12m E3 6a – perfect rock, classic! ***
Hawker 12m E2 5c – safe boulder start, eases quickly **
Willie Wonka 20m E2 6a – Brilliant, no peg but great gear **
Mighty Mouse 10m E1 5c – safe positive climbing, 5b? *
Mother Of Prague 20m E1 5b – Classic at the grade, perfect ***
Did some bouldering too. It was all on beautiful rock in picturesque locations. The edge of the onion blocks were class as was Barry’s Cave roof. White lightening was worth just walking up to look at but the beauty block that stuck in my mind has to be the striking “Exit Planet Dust” – incredible!  
Can't wait to go back!

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