Monday, 21 April 2014

Lemon Sole

While driving to work last Wednesday morning I was admiring the sunshine and blue skies over Dublin from the M50. I had pads and climbing gear in the van and next thing I new I had driven straight past the Finglas exit and onto Portrane - low tide, choppy sea and a chilly breeze. I wanted to get back on Lemon Sole - this had never really appealed to me before last November when I had a play on it with Gaz during a lunch break. I fell off trying to match the highest undercut during my first session and I've been keen to get back on it ever since. Well Wednesday morning was my second session on it and after a bigger battle than I had thought I was in for I managed to match the finishing flake. Ricky's left foot beta helped with the move into the undercut but I still managed to drop matching it a few times before realising there was a positive edge right at the back of the hold! Game changer. (note: I also broke the left foothold before the send but there is still a smaller and slightly lower edge for the left foot, which I used). Great problem and worth stars I think - not too many positive, physical style mid 7's around like it that I know of. As for the grade? Probably easier for the tall - felt harder than Computer World Left (7A+), and Robots (7B). No where near as hard as Space Machine (7C). Good 7B+? Chuffed finger and shoulder are playing ball too...

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