Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Traverse Time!

My recent playtime on the bouldering traverse I uncovered got me thinking. I enjoyed following Pierre as he pieced together his Full Frontal traverse in Scotland. Also been reading about Chris Davies on his mission to dispatch an unrepeated 8B+ in a single trip – his story is an epic. The focus and drive he poured into training in North Wales with this one goal in mind. Really interesting to read and motivational too! I've also been just enjoying bouldering again. Being able to focus (obsess) on a single move or even on a single hold. It really shows how easy progress is to make once you begin to distil a sequence down into its base components. Below is a short video of my latest – Turmoil Traverse. Nice climbing and subtle too. Poor and often too low footholds and a combination of spaced and frictionless limestone slopers define the crux. Lovely…

4 comments:

seanboy said...

sWEEEET ;) Looks like a whole lotta fun! Plenty more of the same to follow I hope.

Dave said...

You know it!

Pierre said...

Frictionless limestone slopers! That's serious power training Dave! Nice overhang anyway, that traverse looks hard ! Is there potential for more sequences or do you actually use all the holds available?

Dave said...

Cheers Pierre. The start moves around the undercut feel really bunched for me so i reckon shorter climbers would find that easy. After that the wall has just the two fault lines - one for the hands and one for feet although around the crux there are few options. The wall is pretty blank for feet just there (i use a tiny nubbin) and the handholds are just what i use. Spent ages trying to figure out a sequence without a cutloose but nothing worked. The pop works though, allowing the easier ground to be reached. I was thinking that with pads you could try a high heel hook around hand level but too hard for me at the minute. Don't kn ow if it's 'hard' or not... could be though :o)