Monday, 18 October 2010

Steady as she goes...

I´m still trying to get a grip on things but managed to get out to the Cova Fuma for an hour on Sat in between planning and running etc... First i warmed up on a nice steep 6c+ and then turned my attention to the next easiest route at the crag. A steep and powerful 7c. It looked nails and the guide warned of an "extremely difficult" crux. After going up the route bolt to bolt and kind of half figuring out a sequence that didn´t quite work i lowered off and did something i hadn´t done before... i untied, pulled the rope and tied straight back in a fought to the chains! Chuffed with this as on a personal scale this felt harder to me than some 7c+´s i had been on in the past. The steep nature of the rock and small edgey handholds meant that there was no magic foot faggotry to get the weight onto the feet... it was a case of beasting it and snatching upwards. I definately felt the few sessions on the bachar ladder are helping my locking on this style of terrain, class!
It´s monday now and we´re just in after stealing a few hours of fading evening light at the crag after work. we managed to knock out 6 leads each before dark from 6b+ to 7b+... great mileage! On that note, anyone out there know where i could order some kind of LED floodlight? Night time climbing is deffo on the cards if i can manage it! All the best and well done to everyone who competed at Dingle at the weekend... was psyched to read about Neal and Sean getting into the finals and NEal finishing 2nd! Good job!!

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