Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Holiday Boulders

I love new climbs... theres something really nice about finding a path up something thats never been done before. I was lucky enough a few years ago to stumble on a big block in Glendalough, the Hidden Groove, and blitz it of it's easier problems. Although nothing too hard, they were really nice and still attract a few boulders. This Christmas while out for a rest day's walk Caroline's little brother and i were playing the "spot me some big rocks to climb on" game and Hugh pointed out this:

I nipped across the river and took a look. Straight away the Awesome and Huge groove got me excited and before i knew it i had decided to spend the following day on a solo scrubbing and sending mission - i firured i could get 3 or 4 problems outa this bloc!

Within a few hours i had picked out and brushed 9 problems! and began to climb, aiming for the easier ones first as Sean and Kev Marnane were on there way and i wanted a spot and more pads for the higher ones! The 3rd problem i tried i underestimated... turned out to be a beautiful beast! Technical, steep, powerful. I eventually sent it after what felt like over an hour of trying moves, brushing more holds, chalking, brushing, pulling .... eventually the most lucky slap and throw for the break held and i could top out happy. Felt hard for me but i gave it 7b... half expecting it to be repeated and downgraded soon.... time will tell. I named it "Hugh" after the little man who pointed me at the rocks in the first place :)

Duncan on "Dolittle"

Kev being shut down by the modern classic SS Arete (Font 4)

Starting move of "Hugh"

The original (well only so far) crux method - right toe-hook, left heel-hook

Sean's video of "In the Moon" Font 5+

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