Saturday morning we got up early for an 8 mile road run around Airbus – it was beautiful! No cars, no people, just blue skies and freshness and sunshine! After breakfast we packed a lunch and hit the road for Dinbren again – actually on that note, I woke up with really tight and pumped forearms from the evening before! Weird! All that undercutting and what not really took it out of me – seriously, don’t think I regained full range of motion in my wrists until a good while after the run. Anywho, Dinbren again – this time it was packed (well, for Clwyd at least!) 3 other groups of climbers! Haa! It was beautiful and sunny so we warmed up in the shade on a 6c and 6c+…Caroline cruising both on a top rope before moving along to try some of the bigger lines in the sun. Not to be. The layout of Dinbren pretty much guarantees shelter – today that meant that there was not even the slightest breeze or shelter from the sun – it was searing!
I tried to plug another hole in my tick list with “Orgasmatron” 7a – the guidebook never mentioned that it was half Trad!! I pass the 3rd bolt and keep climbing – the onsight is going great considering the heat… but then I start to get pumped… looking down for better foot placements I notice that my last draw is a long way down – WAY Down infact! Actually, if I pinged off now I’d deck! Shit! The next piece of gear is either the top bolt on the lip of the capping roof at the top of the crag or a neighbouring line that doesn’t look the easiest to reach. Decision time – run it out through the roof into and beyond deckout-ville or downclimb – downclimb. Lee than come over – “Er, meant to put in the guide that wires are needed on that Route Dave – not too popular that one – Sorry, My Fault!” Haa! Classic… Epic avoided – down climbed the 8a to it’s right taking the gear out – holds felt good * Mental note: must get on that at some time*. After that Caroline had another go at her project making progress on the powerful roof undercut moves. Hesitant to go just yet I try a 7b on another of Lee’s tip offs. I make the initial crux span through to roof to a hot undercut but the heats too much and we pack it in for the day – yes, that’s right I have now been Sun’ed off a Brittish Crag for the first time! It was too hot to climb – it was almost too hot to breath, walk, anything!! Incredible!
I tried to plug another hole in my tick list with “Orgasmatron” 7a – the guidebook never mentioned that it was half Trad!! I pass the 3rd bolt and keep climbing – the onsight is going great considering the heat… but then I start to get pumped… looking down for better foot placements I notice that my last draw is a long way down – WAY Down infact! Actually, if I pinged off now I’d deck! Shit! The next piece of gear is either the top bolt on the lip of the capping roof at the top of the crag or a neighbouring line that doesn’t look the easiest to reach. Decision time – run it out through the roof into and beyond deckout-ville or downclimb – downclimb. Lee than come over – “Er, meant to put in the guide that wires are needed on that Route Dave – not too popular that one – Sorry, My Fault!” Haa! Classic… Epic avoided – down climbed the 8a to it’s right taking the gear out – holds felt good * Mental note: must get on that at some time*. After that Caroline had another go at her project making progress on the powerful roof undercut moves. Hesitant to go just yet I try a 7b on another of Lee’s tip offs. I make the initial crux span through to roof to a hot undercut but the heats too much and we pack it in for the day – yes, that’s right I have now been Sun’ed off a Brittish Crag for the first time! It was too hot to climb – it was almost too hot to breath, walk, anything!! Incredible!
I still have not been back onto “Cured” the 7c I fancy with the dyno to the ‘teeny’ edge – it’s not going anywhere… I’ll be back
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